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We are spending the night of January 15 on the streets of Tokyo. We will be attending the tuna auction at Tsukiji Market at 2:00am so there is no point on getting a hostel for a few hours. We found a 24 hours restaurant where we had some food and hang out for most of the night. We walked to the market entrance to line up for the tuna auction. We were allowed inside a warm room after 3:00am and by 4:00am a bidder came to tell us a bit about what we were going to see. He explained how they auction the tuna and how the auctioneer and bidders have signs to get the bids, basically we will never know how much they pay for a tuna fish!

Bidder in the Tuna Auction, Tsukiji Market, Japan

At 5:30am we were escorted to the tuna auction and 15 minutes later we were taken out to allow a second group come in. In this short period of time we saw how the bidders inspect the fish and witnesses several auctions because they do not take too long. Unfortunately this is a practice that will disappear shortly with the construction of the new fish market. Apparently the auction will be electronic… will not be as fun as it is now!

Inspecting the Fish at the Tuna Auction, Tsukiji Market, Japan

Right after the tuna auction we took the train and headed to Ryogoku Kokugikan for the “2018 January Grand Sumo Tournament”. We were told to arrive very early because there are always last minute tickets that are sold on the day of the competition. We followed the instructions and were there by 6:30am. Around 7:30am we got a piece of paper with a number so we were going to get some tickets. At 8:00am we were directed to the ticket office, got our tickets and were inside the Sumo Stadium. The day started with the intermediate division, fight after fight the stadium got crowded and crowded. After lunch time the senior division fights started and the place got crazy, the atmosphere was great and everyone was cheering for their favourite sumo wrestler. The day ended up for us at 6:00pm and without a proper night of sleep we were ready to go to bed.

It was a day pack with a lot of excitement, the tuna auction and the sumo wrestling; two unique Japanese activities we could not miss.

Sumo Tournament, Ryogoku Kokugikan, Japan

Competitor Entering the Sumo Tournament, Ryogoku Kokugikan, Japan

Introduction of Competitors before the Sumo Tournament, Ryogoku Kokugikan, Japan

On January 17 we visited the Nissan Crossing in Ginza where Marcela had a coffee with her face printed on it, the resolution of the printer is remarkable. We also visited some shops looking for camera lenses.

On January 18 we woke up really early to go to Kawasaki station. We read online that it is one of the busiest stations during rush hour so we could see the pushers in action. We got there right on time, train after train people were pushed inside until the doors close. The best one was this lady that comes to the door and in the best Japanese way apologises by bending before start pushing other commuters… such polite people can only be found in Japan.

The rest of the day we spent it walking on the streets of Tokyo and looking for a camera lens.

We could not miss to visit the Shibuya Crossing, the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world. We spent some time watching people crossing the street in several directions. Here is time-lapse of this experience…

Today was our last day in Japan, it was an amazing experience we could not have made a reality without the hospitality of Manuel that hosted us for many nights in Tokyo. It is a very expensive country to visit but if you can have a person that hosts you especially in Tokyo, you will have money to do other things. So thank you very much Manuel and thank you Japan for an amazing time, we will come back again during a warmer time of the year!

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

15/01/201823/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Kyoto (January 12 – 15)

On January 12 we went to Uji, a small town south of Kyoto. We visited Byodo-in Temple, which was converted from a rural retreat to a temple in 1052. Added to the temple in 1053, the Amida-do or Hoo-doo (Phoenix Hall) is the only original remaining structure from the era as the temple complex was destroyed by fire in 1336.

In the afternoon we headed to Gion, a popular geisha neighborhood in Kyoto. At 6:00pm at the Gion Corner we attended a performance of traditional Japanese ceremonies like Chado (Tea Ceremony), Koto (Japanese Harp), Kado (Flower Arrangement), Gagaku (Court Music), Kyogen (Ancient Comic Play), Kyomai (Kyoto Style Dance) and Bunraku (Puppet Play). Although this is a script performance it gives the audience the idea of the Japanese traditional culture.

Performance of Traditional Japanese Ceremonies at Gion Corner, Kyoto, Japan

At night we walked along the streets of Gion trying to spot a geisha but did not have any luck!

In the early afternoon of January 13 we visited the Sanjusangen-do Temple. This is a massive wooden structure home of 1001 statues of the 1000-armed Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy.

We then walked to Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Unfortunately it is under reconstruction so we could not appreciate the outside of the temple, but we could still visit the inside and see the pilgrims perform their prayers.

Fountain to Drink Sacred Water – Otowa-no-Taki at Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kyoto, Japan

We finished the day in Gion looking for geishas and this time we found one that was picking up her client at a nearby hotel. They headed to the geisha house where I was able to take a nice picture of her through the door.

The streets of Gion are full of beautiful traditional Japanese houses, a place worth visiting while in Kyoto.

Geisha with her Client at Gion, Kyoto, Japan

On January 14 we went back to Sanjusangen-do Temple. During our visit yesterday we found out that there is an archery event that only happens once a year. The female teenagers graduating from high school participate in this archery event. It was quite the organization and the girls had beautiful dresses, make-up done and great hairstyles.

Archery Event at Sanjusangen-do Temple, Kyoto, Japan

After lunch we visited the Chion-in Temple. This is a big complex with lots of small shrines and places for worshipping. There is also a cemetery with elaborate tombs.

We finished the day in Nakagyo, another popular neighborhood to spot geishas. This time we had better luck as we encounter a Maiko walking along the narrow alleys. She did not stop for a picture but did not mind my camera taking a few shots of her.

In the morning of January 15 we went to walk around Nijo-jo Castle, we did not enter the castle grounds but we had a nice view of parts of it from the outside. Visiting every place in Japan can break your wallet in a heartbeat, if the place is a UNESCO World Heritage Site it will cost more than a regular site, however almost everything in Japan is UNESCO so we could not afford to visit every place.

We spent the afternoon at Fushimi Inari Taisha. This was our third attempt to visit the place so this time we took advantage of it. We had a nice hike up to the top of the mountain and visited several small temples along the way. We really took our time visiting this iconic Japanese place.

In the evening we took the Shinkansen back to Tokyo.

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

11/01/201822/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Kanazawa and Matsumoto (January 10 – 11)

In the morning of January 10 we took the train to Matsumoto. We visited the Matsumoto Castle, Japan’s oldest wooden castle and one of the four castles designated as National Treasures. Here we met Fumio, a volunteer guide that took us around the castle and explained a lot about the history of the city, castle and surrounding areas. Fumio is a 82 year old retired engineer but he has the energy of a 50 year old person; he was going up and down the castle stairs like nothing. The volunteers had a sign on the front door that reads “we only accept smiles as payment”. What a lovely people they were!

Fumio also recommended us to go for a stroll around Nawate-dori Street. This is one of the oldest streets in Matsumoto and has beautiful traditional Japanese houses.

Marcela and Fumio in Matsumoto Castle, Japan

In the afternoon we returned to Kanazawa just to find a very crappy weather, but what the hell this is not going to kill us! In the evening we took the bus to Higashi-chayagai, also known as Higashi Geisha District. We were hoping to encounter a geisha but unfortunately due to the weather nobody was on the streets. We could hear geishas playing music inside one of the geisha houses but could not see anybody walking on the streets.

Higashi-chayagai (Higashi Geisha District), Kanazawa, Japan

We finished the day with what could be the worst food experience ever. We order calamari, an appetizer to share and here is where things turn bad. The calamari arrived, it was a dish with 4 small calamari in a sauce placed over a lettuce leaf. They were whole, without cleaning and with the head on. Marcela was brave enough to try it first but her face told me everything about what we had ordered… upon biting it, the eyes explode inside your mouth, the brain breaks into pieces and the guts… well, they mix all together; leaving an unpleasant taste in your mouth. It was hard to swallow to say the least, luckily we had a drink to helps us pass it through. This was the first and last we ordered calamari in Japan that did not say “fried” on the menu.

Calamari – Worst Food Experience, Kanazawa, Japan

In the morning of January 11 we visited the Omicho Market in Kanazawa, with a great variety of seafood and vegetables this is busy place among locals; not even the weather stop people from visiting this place.

Around noon we went to walk around the Kanazawa Castle. This place looks gorgeous with the fresh snow on the ground, however it is too cold to be outside for long time but we manage to get a good look and a few pictures.

After lunch we went back to Higashi-chayagai, also known as Higashi Geisha District, to visit Shima, a former geisha house from 1820’s. This place displays the layout of a traditional geisha house and the instruments they use to entertain the clients, it also has a beautiful collection of personal items used by geishas.

Late in the afternoon we took the local train towards Kyoto. There are a few places we have not visited that we want to see. We arrived in the evening to the smallest apartment we have seen, however very comfortable and clean.

Shima – Old Geisha House in Higashi-chayagai (Higashi Geisha District), Kanazawa, Japan

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

09/01/201822/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Nagano (January 9)

On January 9 we took the Shinkansen towards Nagano. Upon arrival we bought the bus tickets to go to Jigokudani Monkey Park to see the snow monkeys. After an hour and 15 minutes we arrived to the entrance of the park; from there we walked 1.6Km to the springs.

At the beginning just a couple of monkeys were in the spring and we thought it was going to be another one of those experiences you only see in the NatGeo channel. However, about half hour later more monkeys arrived and started filling up the pool. The scene gets more interesting by the minute as the monkeys relax and pamper each other in the spring. There were also a couple of fights, which brought a different spice to the scene. After an hour and a half of freezing our butts off we decided to start walking down.

We took the bus to the train station and got onto the local train. We got off at Obuse, a small town with traditional Japanese architecture. Unfortunately it was a bit late to enter some of the museums. We walked along the streets for over an hour and took the train to Nagano.

Upon arrival in Nagano we visited the Zenko-ji Temple, home of what is believed to be the first Buddhist image to arrive in Japan. The temple is another one of those stunning structures.

From the Zenko-ji Temple we walked along the main road towards Nagano’s City Centre. The town has a good vibe with great cafes and restaurants.

In the evening we took the Shinkansen to Kanazawa where we found a great hotel for a very good price!

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

08/01/201822/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Tokyo (January 6 – 8)

In the morning of January 6 we went to the UENO Zoo expecting to see the baby panda bear, unfortunately for us the visits were restricted to people that had participated and won tickets on a raffle a few weeks ago. It was very disappointing not only for us but for many more tourists that could not see the baby panda, we don’t think it is a proper way to restrict the visits; tourists cannot participate in a raffle that happened a few weeks before coming to the country… oh, and the raffle was during the Japanese news!

Very disappointed we carried on visiting the zoo. We were able to see the male panda bear and many other animals.

In the afternoon we walked around the Ueno area. We started by the Ueno park, then walked along Ameya-yokocho Market, a vibrant street market in Tokyo. Later in the afternoon we visited Akihabara, an area popular for its massive game stores and figurines.

Figurines Store in Akihabara, Tokyo, Japan

Cotton Candy Store in Akihabara, Tokyo, Japan

On January 7 we visited the Tokyo National Museum, a very impressive museum with the largest collection of Japanese art.

In the evening we went to Tokyo Central Station to take some night shots of this beautiful building.

Manuel took us on January 8 to Odaiba, a neighborhood developed in the 90’s with tall buildings and wide streets. We had a beautiful view of the Tokyo Bay and the Rainbow Bridge. We also took pictures of a replica of the Statue of Liberty. We then went to Diver City Mall where we saw a full size (18 meters tall) Gundam statue. Late in the evening, the Fuji TV building presents a very impressive light show!

Statue of Liberty in Odaiba, Tokyo, Japan

Statue of Gundam in Odaiba, Tokyo, Japan

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

05/01/201822/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Fujiyoshida and Lake Kawaguchi (January 5)

On January 5, Manuel took us to Fujiyoshida, a town close to Mount Fuji. We were hoping for a clear view of Mount Fuji but unfortunately the clouds had different plans. We went to Lake Kamaguchi where we had a great view but the clouds did not allow us to see anything.

We then went to Fujisan World Heritage Centre where we learned a lot about Mount Fuji, how it got formed, the religious importance for the local people and much more! It is a great visit while in the area.

Fujisan World Heritage Centre, Fujiyoshida, Japan

Later in the afternoon we went back to Lake Kamaguchi for one more chance to see Mount Fuji and we got rewarded by mother nature. We had a good view, not completely clear but good enough to take a few good pictures of this magnificent mountain.

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

04/01/201822/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Edo Wonderland (January 4)

Manuel took us to Edo Wonderland on January 4. Edo Wonderland is a place where people can step back in time as they recreate Japan in the 17^th century. There are several shows throughout the day, unfortunately they are all in Japanese so we could not understand much, especially the comedy one!

Although it is staged it will give the attendees a taste of how Japanese people lived in the 17^th century during the Edo period, the way they dressed, hair styles, etc.

It was a very enjoyable day!

Carlos, the new star of Japanese Theatre, Edo Wonderland, Japan

Manuel and Marcela, Edo Wonderland, Japan

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

03/01/201822/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Kawasaki (January 3)

We spent the day around Kawasaki. We have been staying in the area for a couple of weeks but have not spent too much time around looking around. We went to the area surrounding the train station, visited some shops and then went to the Amusement Game Park Kawasaki Warehouse. This place is a very well decorated arcade with lots of entertainment for people over 18. We had never seen the variety of games we saw in this place. It was Wednesday at 4:30pm and there were lots of people playing… what happens on a Saturday evening?

Amusement Game Park Kawasaki Warehouse, Kawasaki, Japan

We then went to a free drum performance on an open-air venue in Kawasaki. The show was incredible, the beat of the drums and the rhythm were absolutely beautiful to listen to. Just before the end of the show they asked people to go on stage to play with them… and of course we were the only foreigners in attendance so we were the first ones to be asked to go play… another great Japanese experience.

We headed to Manuel’s house in the early evening.

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

02/01/201822/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Nikko (January 2)

We left early in the morning of January 2 towards Nikko, a small town north of Tokyo. The train ride took over two hours because of the connections we had to do.

We arrived in Nikko and headed for the temples. The first stop was at Tosho-gu Shinto Shrine. This is a complex of different shrines including a five-storey pagoda as well as other temples. The highlight of the visit was the demonstration of the echo that a couple of pieces of wood produce when they are hit under the dragon’s mouth (called the crying of the dragon), however the echo does not produce anywhere else in the room.

We then visited the Rinno-ji Temple and although it was under restoration we had a good understanding of how impressive this temple is. They built a 7 or 8 storey warehouse around the whole temple to perform the restoration, which will take several years to complete. We were able to climb all the way to the top floor to see the restoration of the roof. Also, we could see the big Buddha which is the centre piece of the temple.

On the way back to town we stopped at Shinkyo Bridge, a very iconic bridge in Japan.

We headed back to Tokyo in the afternoon before missing the last train.

Asia, Travel Journal, 🇯🇵Japan

01/01/201821/07/2018somosadictosaviajar

Himeji and Kyoto (December 31 – January 1)

On December 31 we took a train from Osaka to Himeji. We want to visit the Himeji Castle as it is one of the best castles in Japan. We reached Himeji by 11:30am and went straight to the castle. We had to wait in line for a little while under the rain, but it was not a big deal. The queuing is organized and the entry process is well coordinated… well, it is Japan after all.

View of Himeji from the Castle, Himeji, Japan

The inside of the castle is beautiful, although there is no decoration because nobody lived in it. Castles were used to defend the city during enemy attacks. If the enemy conquered the castle it will take possession of the city. The wood structure of the castle is an engineering masterpiece.

Interior of Himeji Castle, Himeji, Japan

We then visited the Koko-en Garden, a beautifully designed zen garden. It is divided in several different gardens based on vegetation.

In the early afternoon we took a train to Kyoto. We reached the hostel where we will be staying and the owner offered to take us for free to the temple for New Year’s celebration Japanese style, of course we jumped on this unique opportunity to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Japan.

Around 10:00pm we left with the hostel owner, a guide and several other guests to a small and cozy temple about 45 minutes by bus. We arrived at the temple and met the monk who will be leading the ceremony. We all lined up by the bonsho (temples’ bell) and watch many more people queuing up. At midnight, the monks pray and chant by the bell and then proceed to ring the bonsho. After they complete the ritual, they invited us to ring the bonsho; precise instructions were given not to ring it too hard because it is over 400 years old and they were afraid that could be damaged. I do not think a piece of wood will damage a couple of tons copper bell.

After ringing the bonsho we headed to receive some free food. There was soup and noodles and mandarins.

This was the end of the night, a very cultural night to understand how Japanese celebrate New Year’s Eve. We returned to the hostel around 2:00am.

On January 1 we headed to Kinkaku-ji o Rokuon-ji Temple. Also known as the Golden Pavilion Temple this is supposed to be the place where the ashes of Sakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism, are enshrined. The hundreds of yelling and screaming tourists visiting this place every day are the only ones disturbing the tranquility and peacefulness of such a beautiful place. The reflection of the temple on the lake makes it a great spot for photographs!

After taking a few pictures and enjoying the temple for a while, we took a stroll around the gardens, which are also beautiful.

Kinkaku-ji o Rokuon-ji Temple, Kyoto, Japan

We then headed to Fushimi Inari Taisha, unfortunately the place was full of people. It is a mayor tradition for Japanese people to visit the most important temples on January 1^st, so this one in particular was packed. We quickly abandoned this idea and instead headed to nearby temples.

Fushimi Inari Taisha Temple, Kyoto, Japan

Fish on a Stick, Fushimi Inari Taisha Temple, Kyoto, Japan

We visited Tofuku-ji Temple, which has the largest and oldest Sammon (main gate) of all the Zen Temples in Japan.

Pilgrims cleaning themselves before getting into the Temple, Kyoto, Japan

We returned to Tokyo in the evening.