We arrived in Hualien last night. We went to the night market for dinner and walked around the city.
On November 28 we went to the Taroko National Park. We took the local bus from the train station and just over half hour later we arrived at the park. We stopped for a walk at the Buluowan Lower Terrace, went for a walk and waited for the next bus.
We then headed to the farthest point we intended to reach in the park, the Lüshui Geological Exhibition Place; from here we did a short walk and got back to the road. We waited for the bus for a bit but due to construction on the road they are running late so we decided to go to the Taroko Gorge on foot. It took us a while but the walk was very nice. We enjoyed the views at the gorge and then headed for the next bus stop. We had nice views of the river and walked along the old road.
We catch the last bus going back to Hualien. It was a nice day enjoying the magnificent scenery of the Taroko National Park.
We arrived in Taitung in the evening of November 25 and went for a walk around town. It is a nice cozy town but there is not much to see or do.
On November 26 we went to see the surfing competition. It is a stop of the World Longboard Championship so we witness excellent surfing skills.
On November 27 we got a couple of bikes from the hotel and went around the seaside area. We then headed to a beautiful park which had nice bike paths. All of a sudden Carlos got a flat tire, we tried to get help but the guy that helped us called his bicycle rental company and the guy came but as soon as he saw it was not one of his bicycles he did not care much. We were short on time so we started walking and fortunately enough we found the bicycle shop where we put some air in the tyre and continue our journey to the hotel. We were very close of missing the bus to our next destination.
In the early afternoon we took the train to Kaohsiung. We left our bags at the hotel we will be staying, got a bus and went sightseeing around the city. We came across the Pier area; what used to be old warehouses it is now rebuilt and a trendy area of the city. There are a lot of sculptures, street art, etc.
On November 24 we went to visit some unique temples by Lotus Pond. We visited the Spring and Autumn Pavilions and a few other temples in the area. There were a few crazy guys water skiing in Lotus Pond… look at the system they use to ski, no need for a boat!.
We then headed to the City Centre and visited the main library in Kaohsiung, a modern building in the heart of the city. The view from the terrace is very nice, we could appreciate the modern style construction this city is adopting. Take a close look at the Convention Centre!
In the evening we took a ferry to visit Cijin, another area of Kaohsiung.
On November 25 we visited the local market of the area we were staying. We then headed to the Pier area, where there was a comics convention. It was fun to see almost all the attendees dressed up in their favourite cartoon character. We spent over an hour walking around and taking pictures!
In the afternoon we took a train to Taitung, a city in the east coast of Taiwan.
On November 21 and 22 we walked all day around town and visited some of the temples and places of interest; we went to the Gran Matsu Temple, the Fort Provintia, Fort Zelandia and Tiangong Temple. In the evening we went to the night market to enjoy local food!
In the morning of November 23 we went to the Confucius Temple and the Eternal Golden Castle before heading to Kaohsiung.
In the morning of November 18 we took a bus for Alishan, a town high up in the mountains of Taiwan. The bus ride took 3 and a half hours. We arrived in Alishan just to find out that accommodation was outrageously expensive. The guys at the information centre were kind enough to find a campground for us but it was far away. While debating what to do we met another backpacker who had already gone through most of the hotels and found that not only everything was expensive but that most of them were fully booked. There was an alternative… the catholic church in town apparently has some hostel-like rooms. The three of us headed there and sure enough we found a basic and semi-affordable accommodation for the night.
We then went for a walk around the park. We visited several places including some temples and walk along a nice forest.
When the night comes the park dies, we almost cannot find a place to eat; everything closes by 8:00pm. We were the last customers at the only restaurant open until 8:30pm.
The reason we came to Alishan is because it is a very popular and traditional place to see the sunrise in Taiwan… let’s wait and see!
On November 19 we woke up at 4:00am to catch the first train up the hill to see the sunrise. We got to the top, walk for about 20 minutes and found this amazing spot to see the sunrise. I have to say that our luck continues to be really shitty when it comes down to sunrises… look at the pictures! There were lots of clouds and we could not see the sun.
Since we waited trying our luck we missed the last train going down so we walked down to the hostel.
We took our backpacks and left for the bus station to get a bus to Fenchihu. At the bus station we met a couple of Taiwanese girls we had seen at the hostel, they were also going to Fenchihu. They helped us to get the bus ticket and were always looking out for us.
We got off the bus with them at Fenchihu, they looked for a hotel for us and even got a nice discount. We got a beautiful room with a nice view! We then went for a walk with them and they showed us all the culinary specialties of the area, we tasted almost everything on the menu. We also had lunch box which is very traditional in this area of the country. But they saved the best for last… the fried doughnuts were to die for!
Around 2:30pm our Taiwanese friends left on the train to Tainan, their home town.
We stayed in Fenchihu walking around and enjoying the scenery!
On November 20 we walked a bit more around town. We found a small traditional house that was converted into a museum. I spent a fair bit of time taking pictures.
We left Fenchihu in the 2:30pm train. The train ride is beautiful, the descend is quiet steep but enjoyable.
We have developed a new addiction for the ocean, come with us to explore the wonderful marine world while diving in Philippines
We still remember the first time we went diving in Cuba about 15 years ago. We fell in love with the underwater world, however we did not dive for many years. It was not until this trip that we decided to discover the underwater world in Southeast Asia and therefore decided to get our certifications. We are now advanced open water.
We went diving in Philippines with different companies and in different islands but it is difficult not to compare with other dives; however we have learnt to appreciate the details of each immersion. It is normal to meet other divers and ask them about their favorite spot or places they recommend for diving, but they all have a different one. Unfortunately the answer will depend a lot on the conditions during the diving, what marine life they saw and how was the overall experience in that specific day. During our dives in Mabul Island in Borneo, Malaysia we met a man that has been diving for more than 30 years all around the world and like good novices we threw that question at him. His response made us think about our diving experiences… he said that he will never choose one immersion as his favorite because if he did, there will be more dives where he will come out of the water disappointed. He added that each immersion is different depending on the marine life and diving conditions. He finished saying that he always tries to remember the best out of each dive to make them all his favorites. This answer made us think and has helped us appreciate a lot more our immersions.
With the above in mind we have embarked on many immersions around the Philippines and have made a list of what has made some of these dives memorable ones. However, it is worth remembering that we only have around 50 dives under our belt so we are novices in the diving world.
Blue ringed octopus… we found this guy snorkeling in Malapascua, so it does not really count as diving experience; however it is a rare sight, unique and venomous creature so we decided to include it in the list.
Turtles and more turtles. We had dives where we did not know where to look, there were turtles everywhere, once we thought we had seen a very big turtle another one much bigger will show up.
Seahorses in Gato Island. Unfortunately we could not get a good photo of it but it is the first time we see a seahorse so it will be very special for us.
Thresher shark in Malapascua. This dive starts very early in the morning, you should be in the water before 7:00am. You descend to around 15 meters to a plateau and then free fall to about 30 meters. You will meet lots of divers waiting for such a special moment, everybody is anxious for the thresher sharks to make an appearance. Once they show up they swim slowly around allowing the cleaning fish to do their job. It is an unforgettable experience.
Jellyfish… you will see and feel them when you are diving, and although the water is hot we recommend you wear a long wetsuit.
Siquijor is home to one of those aquariums that we thought we could only watch at home in Discovery Channel.
Apo Island has another one of those marine life aquariums, however with a lot more current. Get comfortable, relax and let the current take you through the marine life movie that is about to project in front of your eyes.
Malboal is home to schools of sardines. The sardines have found a safe home close to shore in Malboal and have been here for more than 5 years. Do not miss the opportunity to either dive, snorkel or both with these amazing creatures, it is very spectacular!
Lionfish are also very gracious fish, with long and flexible fins they deserve a lot of respect due to their venom. They stay steady for long periods of time, however when they move they display very glamorous movements.
Coron is home to dozens of World War II wrecks. The possibilities are endless, there are long, short, deep and shallow wrecks. You can explore them on the outside or take a tour through their rooms inside. It is required to have the advanced open water to navigate inside them.
We always try to select a good diving school, we just do not sign up with the first one we visit or the cheapest one. It is important to talk to them, find out what they offer and who will be the dive master or instructor taking you to the dive sites; after all it is our life at risk. Here is a list of the diving schools we have used and are happy to recommend:
Sea Explorers in Malapascua and Apo Island. If you are diving with them in Malapascua, please say hello to Maricris for us. (https://www.sea-explorers.com)
We are now going to Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan’s largest natural lake. We took the bus at 11:30am and arrived in Sun Moon Lake at 13:30pm. Accommodation is very expensive here because it is a very popular destination for locals and foreign visitors, most of them from neighbouring countries. We opted for camping as the temperature is still nice and the facilities are available. We headed to Biwak Campground, set up our tent and headed to explore the town and have lunch.
In the afternoon we took the bus and headed for Itathao, another town across the lake. We then visited Lao Ren Cha Temple where we had a nice view of the lake. We headed back to Sun Moon Lake town for dinner. These towns shut down by 8:00pm, most of the shops will close and there are not too many restaurants that open late.
On November 17 we took the boat tour that was available on our combined ticket. The first stop was Hsuan Kuang Temple where tension was building up among Chinese tourists trying to take a photo with a stone that had an inscription we could not understand… it was interesting to watch people fighting and arguing because some of them cannot respect others, no surprise in that regard!
We then took the second boat to Itathao and walked to the Cable car. We went up to the mountain just to find out that the station we could get off with the ticket we purchased was in the valley and could not see anything, the only view is from the cable car or going up thousands of steps which we were not going to do! We then headed back down to take the boat back to Sun Moon Lake town. We have to mention that the boats are quiet unique, some of them have a very particular decoration!
In the afternoon we rented a bicycle… not a regular bicycle, a 2 person bicycle! This thing was more difficult to handle than any other vehicle I have ever driven. With all the inconvenience of handling and other hazardous tourists, we had a blast. We rode it for about 6Km return and had amazing views of Sun Moon Lake.
In the evening we headed to Wenwu Temple, the biggest temple in the area. We then went back to town to have dinner at the same restaurant we eat last night as it is the only one that opens until late.
On November 13 we walked around Taichung. We headed to the train station to get information for our next destinations, however it was very difficult and sometimes frustrating. We also went to the bus station but did not have much luck either. We finally found a visitor information centre where we got some information. We basically wasted the whole day running around and asking for information. In the evening we headed to Fengjia Night Market where we had again great food and drinks!
On November 14 we went to Lu Kang or Lukang, a small town an hour away from Taichung. This UNESCO Heritage Site has still lots of traditional Chinese houses and buildings and temples. We walked around the area visiting as many places as we could before everything shuts down at 5:00pm. The most impressive areas were the Lu Kang Folk Arts Museum, Lu Kang old street and Lu Kant Mazu Temple.
On November 15 we went to the National Museum of Natural Science and then went for a walk around the Calligraphy Walkway, a very nice area in the middle of the city with parks and walkways for people to enjoy the late afternoon. It is very impressive that some busy cities can still have the luxury to save green spaces for citizens to enjoy nature a few blocks from their houses.
We left the Maldives on November 8 at 9:00pm and arrived in Kuala Lumpur on November 9 at 4:30am. We departed at 10:00am and arrived in Taipei at 2:40pm. After going through immigration and customs we headed to the metro station (MRT Station). With the instructions from our couchsurfing host we took the metro to the city centre and then to her house.
The ride from the airport to the city takes about 45 minutes. The train system is impeccable, everything looks brand new. The city is modern with great infrastructure, nice highways and very organized traffic.
Once at the interchange station we saw the book dispenser or library. Here, people can borrow books 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. A beautiful system for people not to have an excuse not to read. There are also cellphone charging stations, bike rental places, etc. This place is nothing like we imagine and we are sure we will be in for more surprises!
We waited at a restaurant for a few hours because our host was not arriving at home until 8:30pm. We arrived at Momo’s house at 8:30pm and met Ann and Derek, Momo’s daughter and son. Ann is 5 years old and Derek is 11 years old. Both are nice kids and eventhough they do not speak much English the language barrier was not an impediment to communicate with them.
We talked to them and played until 10:30pm and although tomorrow is a school day they do not want to go to bed. We think they are too excited of having us as guests.
November 10 was a day pack with activities. The day started breakfast at the local restaurant a couple of blocks away from Momo’s house. We had pork dumplings, soy milk drink and Shaobing youtiao (cake fritters). Momo had asked us if we would like to go to Derek’s school to talk about Colombia to the student… something we did not hesitate to accept. We then headed to the school and met Lucy, the music teacher, who asked a lot of questions about our lives, our country and everything in between. The kids arrived around 10:00am and we presented Colombia, watch a video and ended up the session teaching them how to dance. It was a great experience!
We then headed to Momo’s school, she is a teacher at a high school nearby, where we will be presenting again. On our way there we stopped at Baofu Temple, a beautiful Chinese temple that was recently renovated. One of the temple workers came to talk to Momo because he wanted to know where we were from and what we were doing in Taipei; he wanted to explain a lot about the temple and sure he did. He even gave us a souvenir. Momo acted as a translator for a while but then another lady helped and the information we got was great.
Once we arrived at Momo’s school we went to two classrooms to present about Colombia and dance… they really liked the dancing part of it. Look at the pictures.
In the afternoon we went to several activities the school has on Friday. There was a traditional bag painting activity where we painted our own small handbags using ink from persimmon fruit. We then went to an exhibition of handpainted bags and cushions. We ended up the afternoon playing a complicated boardgame with school teachers.
At 6:30pm we met Carol, one of our first couchsurfers we received while in Canada. Carol and her friend Eva took us for dinner at a local restaurant. We had a taste of lots of local food, including drunken chicken, pork belly, etc.
After dinner Carol and Eva took us to the hot springs in the mountains nearby. This is not your ordinary hot springs, this is the Taiwanese version of hot springs. I will try my best to describe the experience without a lot of details. There are two options: private or public. Private is a room for a couple with a hot spring in pool. The public option is a big room with sauna, steam room, hot spring pools at different temperatures, spa and showers. In this option men and women are separate. We chose the public option so Marcela could be with Carol and Eva.
Once you register you get a locker key where you leave everything behind. Everything means everything… YES, YOU GO NAKED! Once inside the room you get the real Taiwanese hot spring experience… a whole bunch of retired old man enjoying the sauna, hot spring pools and steam room completely naked!
We went back to our couchsurfing host around 10:30pm. The kids were still up waiting to play with us. It was a very long but rewarding day!
On November 11 we went for a couple of free walking tours around Taipei. The first one was around Old Taipei. We visited the Longshan Temple, the Red House, 228 Park among other historical places.
In the afternoon we went for the Golden Age tour. In this tour we visited the north gate (Beimen), the Taipei Xia Hai City God Temple among other attractions. Both tours are highly recommended while in Taipei, however we enjoyed the morning tour more than the afternoon one. The company running the tours is Like it Formosa.
The day ended up at the night market where we had amazing food!
On November 12 we spent time with Derek, Ann and Momo. Momo invited us to have breakfast with them and then we walked to her mom’s house where we had an amazing lunch cooked by a local Taiwanese lady. Everything we tried was delicious!
Momo and Alex then took us to the train station where we got our train to Taichung. We arrived in Taichung a couple of hours later and after the battle trying to find our hotel we headed to the street night market. We had great food and drinks!
On November 5 we took the ferry to Gulhi, an island nearby. We met Cristina and Alicia on the ferry and when we got to Gulhi we met Irene and Lara. We spent the day by the beach and snorkelling in the area. The beach in Gulhi island is beautiful, just like the ones you will on the magazines that promote the Maldives. The snorkelling was very nice, we found a school of 8 baby squid which did not want to go away.
In the afternoon we went for a walk around the island where we talked to locals and took some nice pictures. The people in Gulhi are very welcoming and friendly.
We returned to Maafushi in the late afternoon.
On November 6 we went diving. The first diving spot was Kandooma Thila, a place infested with sharks, snappers, eagle rays, barracudas and anything else one can imagine. We descended to 30m and with the help of a hook stayed there like in an aquarium, watching sharks play with the strong current. It was honestly overwhelming to see so many marine life all at once, you do not know where to look; everywhere is nice and full of action. We then went to 26m and stay there again with the help of a hook due to the strong current. Here we saw the eagle rays and the school of snappers.
The dive continue along the Thila with more action along the way. What a beautiful dive!
The second dive was at Guraidhoo Corner. It was a nice dive as well but could not match the action of the previous one. We did see a beautiful coral reef at 6m and lots of colourful fish around.
The rest of the afternoon we took it easy.
On November 7 we got a visit from Alicia and went to the beach where we spent the morning. We went snorkelling but the water was infested with jellyfish… we were bitten so badly that had to leave the water. We then went for a walk around the island.
Around 1:30pm we headed to the shark nursery area, a place where lots of baby sharks take shelter from predators. They swim peacefully and graciously very close to the beach. We got great videos of them passing by.
In the evening we went for a night dive. This was an amazing experience. The colours underwater with a light look much different that what you see during a day dive. The dive is a shallow dive, only 16m deep but we inspected a good portion of the reef looking for all sort of creatures. Look at the pictures for some of the marine life we found.
November 8 was our last day in the Maldives. In the morning we went to the beach and spent several hours just relaxing. By lunch time we went to the shark nursery and again the baby sharks were there but could not find them.
At 5:00pm we took the speedboat directly to the airport for our flight to our next destination… Taiwan!
We had an amazing time in the Maldives. This muslim country has found a way to open up its doors to “independent travellers” as they call us; people that cannot pay the expensive resorts but still want to visit and enjoy such a beautiful paradise. They have created an infrastructure of small hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, water sports and diving tailored to budget travellers. They have also designed “bikini beaches” where people can enjoy the sea in bikini and not fully clothed. Of course it is important to be respectful of their culture by dressing appropriately when not on bikini beach.